Colorful DIY Peppermint + Vanilla Layered Soap

This easy melt and pour soap project combines the scents of peppermint and vanilla with classic candy cane-inspired layers of red and white. It’s the perfect handmade gift for teachers, neighbors, or anyone who loves a little holiday pampering.

Just because melt and pour soap takes less time and effort than the cold process stuff, doesn’t mean it’s any less upscale—or gift-worthy—than more time intensive soap.

Adding embedded shapes or simple layers to your soap, like we did with these peppermint-inspired melt and pour bars, is a great way to up your soap making game without a lot of effort. So if you’re looking for a festive craft that won’t stress you out, you’ll definitely want to give this DIY layered soap a spin.

Whether you’ve layered soap before or this is your first time, this project will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing colors to keeping those layers clean and distinct. But for more tips and tricks, check out this post on making layers in melt and pour soap.

Supplies

• Melt and Pour Soap Base—I chose white soap base for this project, but you can use either white or clear (glycerin) soap. If you do choose glycerin soap, I recommend alternating between white layers and clear layers to make the layers standout as much as possible.
• Essential Oils—A natural way to add fragrance and a little aromatherapy to your bars. I went with peppermint and vanilla essential oils for a warm, uplifting scent. But feel free to choose any oils you like.
• Mica Powder—This is what gives your layers their color! Mica powder is nontoxic and skin-safe (yay!), but it doesn’t pack as much punch as soap dye (boo!). If you’re not keeping an eye on toxins you can always opt for traditional soap dye.
• Rubbing Alcohol—A light spritz of rubbing alcohol keeps bubbles from forming between your layers and helps the different colors adhere to one another.

Equipment

• Rectangular Soap Mold—If you plan on making a lot of soap, it’s worth investing in a rectangular soap mold with a silicon liner. I’ve had mine for years and have gotten so much use out of it, plus it makes un-molding such a breeze. But if you’d prefer a DIY alternative, an old milk carton with one side cut off makes a great mold in a pinch. 
• Heat-Safe Bowls or Measuring Cups—To make the process as painless as possible, it’s best to have one container per soap color. If you can, choose ones that have pour spouts.
• Thermometer—If your soap is too hot, it’ll melt the layer it buts up against. That’s why its best to have a kitchen thermometer on hand to quickly check the soap temperature before pouring your layers.

Instructions

Step 1: Cut soap into cubes

To make the melting process a little faster, cut your soap base into small cubes and divide it among three separate microwave safe containers. 

Heat each container separately in the microwave in short 30-second intervals, stirring well between each one, until all the soap is melted.

Step 2: Add mica and essential oils

I wanted three distinct colors: white, pink, and red. I left one container pure white by skipping the mica. I added about 1 teaspoon red mica to the second container, and for the third, I added 2 teaspoons red mica powder.

Add essential oil to all three containers and stir well.

Step 3: Tilt mold & add first layer

Tilt your soap mold slightly by propping one side on top of a small ramekin.

Then pour your first layer. It doesn’t matter how hot this first layer is since it’s not butting up against any other colors. Spritz with rubbing alcohol to remove any bubbles and let cool for 10-15 minutes or until a solid film has formed on top.

Step 4: Add next layer

When your melted soap base cools to approximately 140 degrees F, lightly spritz the cooled layer with rubbing alcohol and pour your next layer. Continue pouring layers and spritzing with rubbing alcohol until you’ve almost reached the top.

Step 5: Pour final layer on top

Remove the ramekin so your soap mold is lying flat on the table, and then pour your last layer. Spray with alcohol and let the whole thing cool for 6-8 hours before cutting into bars.

Substitutions

• Soap base—Any soap base will work here. If you have sensitive skin, aloe, honey, shea butter or oatmeal soap bases are ideal.
• Colors—If you’d prefer not to use mica, you can use other natural powder-based pigments, like beetroot powder or iron oxide pigments. And if three different colors feels like too much, try sticking with one shade of red instead of two.
• Essential oils—Since these soaps are meant for skin, use gentle essential oils like lavender or Roman chamomile. And avoid citrus oils like lemon or lime which can cause photosensitivity.

Storage

I’ve found that soap works better (and lasts a little longer) when it’s had time to dry out a bit, although it’s not totally necessary. For long term storage, leftover bars can be wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in a cool, dry pantry or linen closet indefinitely. But if you notice a change in scent, consistency or texture, it’s time to make a fresh batch.

Top Tip

Don’t let your layers cool too much before pouring the next one or they might split apart when you cut the soap into bars. How do you know what’s too much? I gently touch the layer with my finger. It should feel slightly soft and warm, but not wobbly or like it has liquid underneath.

If it bounces like a waterbed, it needs a little more time. If it feels completely firm and cool, it’s probably waited too long.

And always, always spray before and after pouring a new layer.

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