One of the best compliments I’ve ever received was being told that I looked “’90s fine.” My then-boyfriend said it as we were heading out for date night, and I knew exactly what he meant: that effortless, low-key sultry energy embodied by icons such as Halle Berry, Naomi Campbell, and Nia Long during that era. You might think the praise was referring to my outfit, but it had nothing to do with what I was wearing—it was for my hair. I had a freshly pressed, softly curled, fluffy bob that moved like silk, and conveyed just the right amount of drama.
“Bounce, volume, and playfulness are the hallmarks of the fluffy bob,” says Brenton Diallo, a New York City-based hairstylist who’s been working behind the chair since the early ’90s. He recalls clients routinely bringing in photos of the great Whitney Houston and Tisha Campbell as reference points.
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“Soft, strategic layers are what give this cut its movement and fullness while keeping it light and bouncy,” says Alex Vann, a hairstylist and salon owner in Duluth, Georgia. “What makes it special is the lift at the root and those soft bends throughout the hair. It’s polished, touchable, and frames the face beautifully while still feeling effortless,” she adds.
According to Diallo, the look was partly shaped by the tools of the era; heat-styling technology wasn’t as advanced at achieving pin-straight results on textured hair, so a silk press in the ’90s often yielded airy volume and soft fullness rather than the glassy, ultra-sleek finish that’s common today.
As trends tend to do, the fluffy bob has circled back around into the spotlight, though you could argue it never really left. Recently, Beyoncé debuted a bouncy, jaw-skimming blonde bob that promptly sent the internet into a tizzy. And if history tells us anything, her co-sign alone is enough to propel a hairstyle straight into trend territory. Says Vann, “That’s the energy we’re channeling with today’s fluffy bob, nostalgic but modernized.”
Ahead, pro hairstylists share their techniques for achieving this timeless look, plus the best tips for making your fluffy bob last as long as possible.
How to get a fluffy bob
“The cut itself is the foundation of the style,” Vann says. “To achieve the fluffy bob properly, soft layers must be added to create body, volume, and natural movement.” The stylist recommends booking an appointment for a layered bob haircut and bringing in reference images to communicate the exact look you want. After your cut (which usually happens after the hair has been washed and blown out), a classic silk press and pin-curl set (the large curls created with a barrel wand and held in place by clips) is the styling method that brings the fluffy bob to life.
