Table of Contents
When we first wrote up the Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R for the Vision issue this year, it was a no-brainer: Patek Philippe debuts its first high complication – or grand complication as the brand terms it – in the Twenty~4 collection. Just seven years ago, this popular ladies’ watch family was all quartz, and in a distinctive shape; then a round automatic model debuted and we had to wonder if the Genevan brand would finally raise up this family with a complication. Ref. 7340, as we will refer to it, is the answer to that question. Of course, on reflection, this is perhaps entirely in line with Patek Philippe’s plans, even before the automatic model in 2018.
To understand, we have to journey a little further back, to a discontinued model called the Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071R. That watch represented a sea change at Patek Philippe and was regarded as a cheeky move way back in 2009, largely because this was the debut of Patek Philippe’s new manufacture chronograph movement. For those who do not remember this, it really did mean that men who did not like the idea of buying a ladies model for themselves would have to sit out the first appearance of calibre CH 29-535 PS. To be clear, it is worth remembering that in 2009, no one was really talking about unisex watches as a real phenomenon, and Ref. 7071R launched with diamonds (136 round ones on the dial flange). In other words, there was no doubt about what the watch was and who it was for, as if the name Ladies First Chronograph did not give it away.
DIFFERENT STROKES
With the raft of releases this year including notably restrained women’s watches – the Twenty~4 is not a unisex collection – as well as the Cubitus Ref. 7128 (in two variants), it may be tempting to read something about the role of precious gemstones here. When one includes watches such as Ref. 4946 and even the similarly sized Ref. 6196, the notion that the manufacture wants to offer sober watches to women gains ground. However, not only has this been happening for awhile – and we have not even brought Ref. 7040 and Ref. 7130 into it – but Patek Philippe certainly recognises the artisanal value of gemsetting in traditional watchmaking. Look to this year’s Ref. 5811/1460 and Ref. 7010G for evidence.
Of course, the point is that there are different sorts of watches for different tastes, and a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar need not be enriched with diamonds to appeal to women. Now here, there is something of a relationship with Ref. 7071R because the new Ref. 7340 could have gone the same way but did not. The result is a watch that is far more inclusive and open, while also bearing the distinction of being first in more than just one way. Ref. 7340 is the also the first round Twenty~4 watch without a gem-set bezel. While we welcome this, we revise our previous assessment that the watch represents a “female collector prioritising substance over sparkle, and heritage over novelty.” There are not any priorities here, unless it relates to making the wealth of watchmaking’s appeal more apparent. This is why the simple three-hander is the most popular traditional watch of all, but we are getting ahead of ourselves.
COMPLICATED AESTHETICS
Since we have covered Ref. 7340 at length, let us spare a few words to revisit the basics, and some details. Acting on all fronts of the 36mm Ref. 7340/1R is the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q, the same movement behind some of Patek Philippe’s grand complication perpetual calendars. This of course means that we are looking at continuity in the grand complication area, and a modular calibre whose virtues are well recognised. Despite measuring a svelte 3.88mm, the 275-component calibre with a 48-hour power reserve drives a complete perpetual calendar display that requires no manual correction until 2100.
Although the calibre here is literally what makes the watch work, it is also a statement: in a great watch, complexity is the draw, and it can inform aesthetics. With its multiple subdials, the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar does show quite a fanciful face to the world. Gemsetting could add value here but it should be commensurate with the virtues of a storied calibre such as 240 Q. Again, consider Ref. 5811 and Ref. 7010 for good measure. Bringing in Ref. 4946 seals the deal for this story – here too, the aesthetic value is supplied by the subdials of the annual calendar complication.
TEXTURED APPEAL
On a final note about Ref. 7340, there are two dial variations in play but both models are in rose gold, with matching bracelets. The 7340/1R-001 sports a silvery dial with vertical and horizontal satin-brushed finishing that resembles shantung (or Shandong) silk’s distinctive woven texture. Suffice to say that pictures do not do this sort of textured dial any favours; see it in person if you can. The second option, Ref. 7340/1R-010, is perhaps more in line with trends because the dial is sunburst olive green dial. However one feels about that, the colourway suits rose gold and will not disappoint, although we remain more convinced by the shantung version.
To close, we return to the appeal of the three-hander, which for our purposes here are the two versions of Ref. 7128. Unlike the Twenty~4, these are not specifically watches for women, just smaller versions – Ref. 5821 debuted in 2024 as a 45mm truly square watch, and two new references (7128/1G and 7128/1R) are 40mm. The large and “medium-sized,” as Patek Philippe describes the new watches, are both powered by the same calibre, the automatic 26-330 S C. This has the odd effect of demonstrating that this movement is more at home in this very modest case size. Certainly, 40mm is not small and the real difference is the space between the central links, top to bottom. This is really what makes the 45mm version wear large.
The bottom line, of course, is that the watches ostensibly pitched to women in the Patek Philippe range this year are really good for anyone with the right sort of wrist. Taken as a whole, they represent an appeal aimed at women who prefer more sobriety in their watches. Or they might just be great watches for anyone with good taste. That is a position we can get behind.
This story was first seen as part of the WOW Legacy 2025 Issue
For more on the latest in luxury watch reads, click here.
