Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka, Feels Like Bali Without the Crowds

In the small Sri Lankan surf town of Hiriketiya, tuk-tuks whiz past, dodging potholes and dogs sleeping in the sun. Heavy bass pumps from a makeshift bar speaker; its sound nearly drowned out by the waves hitting the shore. In the water, dozens of surfers sit upright, swiveling like tops, waiting for the perfect swell to appear.

“It’s so nice to be back, isn’t it?” I said to my partner as a fresh coconut appeared in front of me. We first came to this crescent-shaped bay town in 2021 during a six-week tour around Sri Lanka. After just one day spent lounging on its silky soft sand and taking dips in its gentle, warm waters, we knew we’d come back—this time for much longer.

Located on Sri Lanka’s palm-fringed south coast, between Mirissa and Tangalle, Hiriketiya is roughly three hours from Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. Word has started to spread about this sliver of paradise, where European tourists come from November to April, bringing more development to the area.

Since our last visit, “Hiri” has taken on a Bali vibe but without the overtourism. A never-ending row of lounge chairs and surf camps line the bay, and a new bohemian beach club, La Playa, has set up bean bags and cocktails on the sand. Eco-friendly boutique shops, trendy coffee spots, and cafes selling poke bowls have also popped up throughout the sleepy coastal town.

And while you can cover Hiri’s hits in a long weekend, I spent an entire month here, surfing, sipping on arrack cocktails, and reacquainting myself with my favorite piece of Sri Lanka. Read on to see why this less-trodden destination is a beach lover’s alternative to Asia’s more crowded islands.

Where to Stay

Sam & Lola’s 

Surrounded by coconut and mango trees on the hill between Pehebiya Beach and Hiriketiya Bay are two A-frame pool villas. This micro-boutique property is designed and run by an expat couple from Taiwan and Australia who met in Sri Lanka a decade ago. The clean white interiors, light timber, French linen, cane-woven headboards, and bedside lamp shades give it a light, airy aesthetic.

La Playa

Located directly on Hiriketiya Beach, La Playa is the new Bali-inspired beach club. Above the pool and dining area are three rooms, each with a private balcony overlooking the water. Wood and rattan furniture mixed with neutral fabrics and Sri Lankan patterns decorate the tranquil rooms. Just be aware, since rooms are situated above a beach bar, the music kicks off early and stays on until 10 p.m.

Le Cabanon

A minute’s walk from the beach, Le Cabanon was inspired by seaside getaways in the south of France. Its three rooms are all unique, but each is thoughtfully decorated with handcrafted wooden four-poster beds, woven rattan chairs, and lotus-shaped lamps. Opt for the suite, which has a private terrace overlooking the monkey-filled jungle.

Mond

Tropical brutalism at its best, Mond is a design-centric blend of polished concrete and wood surrounded by lush greenery and an ocean backdrop. There are six minimalist rooms, outfitted with locally made teak sliding doors, private terraces, linen bedding, rain showers, and ceramics designed by the Swiss owner. Mond’s cafe is also one of Hiri’s best places to work, with fast Wi-Fi and a fresh, Sri Lankan-inspired brunch menu.

Where to Eat & Drink

Smoke & Bitters

Beachside drinking and dining don’t get much better, arguably anywhere. This beloved outdoor restaurant and bar is the place to eat on the south coast. A delicious array of locally inspired cocktails like the Coco B’Smash—made with coconut cream and basil plucked from the garden—await. But don’t drink on an empty stomach. The food here is just as good, especially the eight-hour smoked pork belly and the smoked local burrata topped with mango and house-cured anchovies.

Raa

The newly opened sister restaurant to Smoke & Bitters is an ode to the coconut. This arrack-only bar specializes in classic cocktails made using the local spirit and fresh toddy, tapped straight from the coconut trees above your head. Dishes here are more traditional Sri Lankan, with a killer crab curry and a 24-hour wood-fired baby jackfruit curry. The best part? It’s a foot away from the water, where you can sit and watch the sunset and surfers.

Crab

By day, this unassuming outdoor cafe made from palm fronds and bamboo serves cafe classics like avocado toast, tropical French toast, and smoothie bowls. By night, the team pumps out top-notch Sri Lankan favorites like freshly grilled fish, chicken curry, kottu, and crab curry from their tiny jungle-side kitchen.

Bacuzzi

When comfort food cravings come calling, head to Bacuzzi. With ocean views, this open-air Italian restaurant serves piping hot pizzas and calzones from the oven. The Neapolitan-style personal pies are served with a side of homemade garlic aioli dipping sauce. If you’re looking for something a bit lighter, try the pasta pomodoro or the refreshing pink gazpacho.

Where to Shop

L’Atelier

A boutique store meets a speakeasy, L’Atelier requires an appointment to visit. Once you’ve confirmed your time with owner Cassandre, a tuk-tuk takes you to the secret shop, hidden on the third floor of a nondescript building. Inside is a one-on-one personalized shopping experience where you can buy locally made bags, shirts for men, and stylish yet comfortable women’s clothing designed by Cassandre herself.

Island Luxe Boutique

Across from the sand, this small shop sells beach necessities, including eco-friendly sunscreens and bathing suits. Handwoven beach bags and stylish rattan purses are shipped in from Bali. The store’s Sri Lankan linen clothing is made nearby, as are the colorful wallets and clutches crafted from upcycled plastic and used fishing rope.

Kosha

This new cash-only boutique has goodies for everyone. Soft linen shirts for men and women are made on the island, as are the silky scarves and cotton jungle-print bags. Splashed in loud prints, the delicate shirts and dresses here are beachy statement pieces. Natural zinc sunscreen, perfumes, surf wax, and bug spray are also for sale.

What to Do

Surfing

There are dozens of surf schools lining the water here, like Surf Lion and Dinesh’s Surf School. The knowledgeable local instructors and the bay’s continuous, clean, and gentle swells make it ideal for learning the basics. And while the waves can get crowded with beginners, as soon as you catch a perfect one, another follows.

Turtle Point

Known as Turtle Point on Google Maps, this small bay is a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from Hiriketiya. Here, you’ll find a slew of sea turtles swimming and feeding on seagrass. Travelers can rent snorkel gear for roughly $2, which helps support Gayan, a local conservationist dedicated to protecting the sea turtles. And while you may see people feeding them, it’s not ethical to join in.

Sunset Drinks

Around the world, anything facing the setting sun is considered prime real estate. The same goes for Hiriketiya. As the sun starts to dip, pull up a plastic chair and watch it disappear with a fresh coconut or cold Lion beer. Raa is a fantastic place to post up, but if you’re looking for a no-frills spot, grab a seat at one of the makeshift bars hanging precariously over the water. Surf Bar or Turtle Point are excellent choices to watch as turtles poke their heads up for air and surfers glide by.