“It’s not about the suit — it’s about what happens to Ukraine.”
That was the takeaway from an interview with Ukrainian fashion designer Viktor Anisimov, whose suit was worn by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy for Monday’s White House meetings with U.S. President Donald Trump and European leaders about ending the war in Ukraine. More than three years into Russia’s war with the country, Ukraine’s president continues to appeal to world leaders for an end to the war without any territorial concessions or giving up on joining NATO.
In February, Zelenskyy‘s decision to wear a more casual and military-inspired ensemble by another Ukrainian label Damirli prompted Trump and Vice President JD Vance to criticize that choice. The incident kicked off a firestorm of debate in the mainstream media and on social media. In his defense, Zelenskyy said, “I will wear costume after this war will finish. Maybe something like yours. Maybe something better, I don’t know. Maybe something cheaper.”
Speaking through a translator in an interview Monday, the 61-year-old Anisimov said he was well aware of the criticism that Zelenskyy faced during his Oval Office meeting earlier this year, having seen reports about it on television. The more formal presidential appearance, however, was not in response to that dust-up. Anisimov said, “We had already started working on the president’s new wardrobe and style in January. After what happened in February, knowing our president’s principles, I thought that he would not want to change his style. But no, he decided that we should continue. He doesn’t talk about this subject [with me]. We continue doing what we do, but we all know about this situation.”
Having started the ViktorAnisimov business in 1997, he continues to produce his collections in war-torn Ukraine. He said, “I am not worried about whose suit he will wear. It’s more about the results of this whole meeting. I am more concerned about who will be with us as a country.”
Monday’s trip to the White House included a sit-down bilateral meeting with French President Emmanuel Macron, British Prime Minister Keir Starmer, German Chancellor Friedrich Merz, NATO Secretary General Mark Rutte and Finnish President Alexander Stubb.
Dividing his time between Ukraine and Spain, where his nearly one-year-old daughter and his dogs live, Anisimov said, “When the war doesn’t affect you, it doesn’t seem frightening. When it does, it is a terrible war. I would never wish for anyone to experience what war really is. For me, life has been divided between before and after, as it has for so many people in Ukraine. Those who have never found themselves under fire, can never understand how painful and devastating it is, when your loved ones, sons of your friends, and people that you saw yesterday are suddenly gone today.”
President Donald Trump greets Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy at the White House Monday.
Getty Images
The Ukrainian designer said he met with his country’s leader Friday in Kyiv for what was supposed to be a meeting about Independence Day attire. Lest any pundits or critics read too much into Zelenskyy’s decision to wear a suit, the looks were developed six months ago. Anisimov had created a blue style and a black one for Ukraine’s annual holiday, which is Sunday. The formal French style army jacket made of a military canvas material has a back vent.
As it turned out, Zelenskyy decided Friday that the suit would be perfect for his next White House visit, which at that point had not yet been confirmed. Still expecting that Independence Day would be the first time the suit was going to be worn, Anisimov’s production team took it for a few minor alterations. On Saturday, that timeline changed.
As for the importance of designing a custom garment that was worn for such a pivotal meeting, Anisimov said that is not something that he ever thinks about. First and foremost a designer, his main focus is that the wearer looks good and feels good. That said, his most recent collection, which debuted last winter at Berlin Fashion Week, was inspired by his collaboration with Zelenskyy. The full collection will be showcased during Ukrainian Fashion Week at the Mystetskyi Arsenal in Kyiv on Sept. 5.
Zelenskyy was not the first to wear the Anisimov-designed suit on a global stage. Ukrainian filmmaker Mstyslav Chernov sported one for his “20 Days in Maripol” win at the Oscars in March. He had seen Zelenskyy in the label and reached out to the company.
Non-plussed as Anisimov is about the White House-related attention, Damirli’s designer Elvira Gasanova said her Oval Office-related attention made “our work part of history, connected with politics and with the resilience of an entire nation.” She added, “It brought me both pride and responsibility. Pride because our creations carried the voice of Ukraine to the highest political stage. Responsibility because every new look since then has been weighed not only aesthetically but also symbolically. People expect depth, meaning and authenticity, not just clothes.”
