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If you’re doing your daily social media scroll and come across a creator with ridiculously bouncy layers, chances are high that they have a butterfly cut. “More and more clients are asking for a butterfly haircut,” says Drea Dettmers, a hairstylist at Tallulah East Collective in Salt Lake City, who adds that many are learning about the style from TikTok.
Like most “trends” circulating on the internet, though, the style isn’t new. Hairstylist Sunnie Brook created the cut 15 years ago when she had an influx of clients who wanted to switch up their hairstyle without chopping off all their length. “The name ‘butterfly’ embodies transformation,” says Brook.
If you look back to ’90s glam—with Rachel from Friends as the prime example—you’ll see the face-framing, voluminous layers that make the butterfly cut what it is, says Teryn Tucker, a hairstylist at Alchemy Salon in Orlando. The cut takes inspiration from shaggy ’70s and ’90s haircuts, but celebrities like Sydney Sweeney and Kaia Gerber have brought the style back into the spotlight.
Below, experts share everything you need to know about the butterfly cut, and why it might be time to book your next appointment at the salon.
What is a butterfly cut?
A butterfly cut (also known as an octopus haircut) is a style that falls between a shag and long layers. What makes this look different from all other layered cuts is that the butterfly has two distinct sections: long layers that fall below the shoulders for length, and short layers that hit two to three inches below the chin to frame the face and add volume. Says Brook, “It allows for an illusion of short hair while maintaining length, offering a safe space for change.”
Getty Images
Getty Images
Who should get a butterfly cut?
The style is ideal for people who want to create the illusion of fuller, healthier hair without sacrificing length. Hairstylist Ashley Lynn, in Charlotte, North Carolina, notes that the butterfly cut also “creates volume and shape, while removing damage from every level.”
You don’t need thick hair to wear a butterfly cut, but “there are so many layers, you need full density to get the full effect,” explains Dettmers. If you have thin hair, less layers are typically added. That said, a spritz of texturizing spray can always help add more volume. Allure editors suggest the Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray or Kristin Ess Dry Finish Working Texture Spray.
And if you’re growing out your curtain bangs or a hime haircut, the butterfly cut is a “natural next step,” says Tucker. With less styling needed, the butterfly can give you and your hair a break.
How do you style a butterfly haircut?
The layers add movement that makes for low-maintenance styling. After washing and conditioning your hair, reach for a blow-drying brush, which will add bouncy volume to your layered look. Allure editors recommend the Revlon Salon One-Step Hair Dryer and Volumizer. Be sure to use a heat protectant to prevent damage (we love the ColorWow Dream Coat Supernatural Spray Anti-Frizz Treatment). You can achieve the same effect with a round brush and blow-dryer.
If you don’t want to use a hot tool, Brook recommends partially air-drying the hair. Then, she continues, “when it’s about 75% dry, I like to divide the hair in two sections, and take a small to medium size round brush, using a wrapping and twisting motion to create movement in the hair.” Finish off your style by locking in the volume with hairspray—Brook likes the Biolage Complete Control Hairspray (she’s an ambassador for the brand). We also like the Oribe Superfine Hairspray for this.
Prefer to style your hair up? Pamela Anderson’s messy bun is a good point of reference. Hours Full-Time Plumping Mousse adds volume, Kérastase Elixir Ultime Original Hair Oil helps smooth down flyaways, and Nexxus XXL Volume Medium Hold Spray will lock it all in. All three are Allure Best of Beauty-winning favorites.
