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Winter in Alaska is magical. Think Aurora Borealis, walking with reindeer, ice sculpting competitions, and dog sledding. And then there’s the winter driving in Alaska.
I was in Fairbanks, Alaska, last February for a conference and rented a vehicle. Little did I know that the rules of the road for winter driving in Alaska could be so different from driving in my hometown of Denver. Still, I loved having wheels and freedom to explore—at times, with white knuckles.
Even though I live in Colorado, I’m not a fan of driving in snow. So, I listened closely as a staff member with Explore Fairbanks shared tips about motoring around before I picked up my rented 2020 Nissan Rogue.
Tips and advice for winter driving in Alaska
“Rule number one: Don’t brake,” advised Amy Geiger, director of Communications with Explore Fairbanks.
“What?” I thought to myself. “Don’t brake?”
I learned soon enough that not braking is good advice. It’s best not to use your brakes to slow down, or you could slide. Take your foot off the gas, and you’ll gradually slow down.
Rule number two: “Do not under any circumstances go past a town named Livengood, about 60 miles north of Fairbanks,” Geiger continued. “You’ll end up on the Ice Road.”
Think Ice Road Truckers, the reality show where truckers drive their rigs on routes that include frozen lakes and rivers. The show gives me nightmares, and that’s the last place I wanted to find myself. It’s remote, risky, and best left to the pros.
I circled the town of Livengood on the map and marked it with a giant X.
Rule number three: “Don’t merge too quickly. People here are used to lots of space, and they don’t like to be crowded.”
Geiger went over a few more of the commonsense basics, such as having extra food, water, and blankets, and added that cell phone service could be sketchy in certain areas outside of town.
“That’s about it,” Geiger said with a smile. “Be careful, and have fun.”
Winter Driving in Alaska
From our conference room, where we were staying at Pikes Waterfront Lodge, we made our way to Alaska Auto Rental, where staff handed out maps to the several of us renting vehicles. He also had a few more tips: “Follow the tracks in front of you and drive with your headlights on, day or night.” Then, a staff member turned over the keys to a shiny new Nissan Rogue.
I loved the vehicle but soon discovered that my Sorels, perfect for walking on snow and ice, were clumsy when driving. I couldn’t “feel” the pedals. Later, I learned a tip from a local to have other shoes or boots handy that are less awkward when driving.
I struggled once I realized that on wintery, cloudy days, snow-covered streets blended in with the colorless sky; there was no depth of field. I could not seem to distinguish where the medians were. Hence, I drove much slower than all the other traffic.
To the credit of every driver on the road—at least the day I was behind the wheel—not one person honked or even gave me the stink eye as they passed.
Check out my Alaska winter packing list for extreme temperatures.
What’s it like to drive in Alaska in winter?
Fairbanks is an easy town to navigate, even with its many one-way streets. Still, I made the decision not to leave the city limits. With only 24 hours to explore, I didn’t want the stress of heading down the highway, not knowing where or when the next exit was. I have a terrible sense of direction, and even with my phone’s GPS, I didn’t want to end up anywhere near the Ice Road.
You have to plug in your car
After a couple of hours on my own, I recruited another conference attendee to join me in exploring the town. In the lobby of our hotel, before we walked to the parking lot, I asked her to remind me when we returned to plug in the car. She quizzed with a smile, “We have a Tesla?”
As a Californian, she had even less experience than I did driving in snowy conditions. But together, we had the best time maneuvering town, with her navigating and me gripping the wheel at the 10:00 and 2:00 positions, as I learned in high school drivers’ ed.
But neither of us had ever plugged in a car. Plugging in your vehicle in Alaska is part of life. It’s to prevent the engine from freezing. Seeing power cables sticking out the hood of vehicles is also an everyday sight. You plug the cord into a block heater, which is in public places, hotels, and some businesses.
Roads are not salted in Alaska
Another tidbit I learned is that the city doesn’t use salt (if they do, it’s sparingly) on streets. The salt can make its way into local creeks and streams and harm wildlife. Sand seems to be the better option.
While I couldn’t confirm this, I’m not sure they plow much, either. As my friend and I drove looking for sights to photograph, I said, “Let’s go down this little street. Do you think they plow the side streets?”
“What do you mean?” she replied. “They don’t plow the main streets?”
She was right, and we both giggled as we continued our search for a breakfast place and a parking place. We found both. (The Crepery serves excellent salmon crepes and espresso. Parking in a nearby lot was easy.)
Before I arrived in Fairbanks, I assumed getting an Uber was the best option. Not so. With staffing shortages and soaring gas prices, Uber and Lyft drivers can be few and far between.
Read my article about 29 Things to Do in Fairbanks, Alaska Summer and Winter
Rely on local rides instead of Uber
The good news is that every person in Fairbanks we met was friendly and helpful. One small business owner even offered to close the shop and give my friend and me a ride when he heard me on the phone trying to arrange a taxi. That’s small-town kindness at its best.
At the end of the day, when it came time to plug in (the company suggests plugging in if temperatures fall below zero), I asked someone at Pikes Waterfront Lodge to help, and they gladly did.
Plugging in the car was easy enough. But I did make a note to myself that night: Remember to unplug the car before driving away the next morning.
Driving Distances Beyond Fairbanks
Temperatures can fall well below zero, and visitors must take everything about winter driving in Alaska seriously. The Alaska Department of Transportation recommends to check the road conditions before you go.
Even though I decided not to venture outside the city limits, some of my colleagues did and had an excellent experience. Here are some options to consider if you want to explore beyond Fairbanks:
Chena Hot Springs
Chena Hot Springs is about 60 miles from Fairbanks on a paved, maintained road; however, the highway can be icy, and cell service is unpredictable. The good news is there’s a great chance to see moose, and the drive through the forest is gorgeous. (I made the trip in a van with a dozen of my colleagues and a local driver.) You can also book a shuttle with Chena Hot Springs Resort.
Dalton Highway
The Dalton Highway takes several days if you drive all the way to the North Slope, and you’ll be driving on the gravel part of the way. Check with the car rental company first to make sure they allow you to take the vehicle on this adventure. It might be wise to consider this one for summer travel, but whenever you go, you’ll have glorious views and visits to towns full of character and history, including Coldfoot, Deadhorse, and Prudhoe Bay.
Richardson Highway
As Alaska’s oldest highway, the Richardson Highway connects Fairbanks to Valdez and takes you through Keystone Canyon to Worthington Glacier. You’ll be able to view the Alaska pipeline next to the highway as you drive from Valdez to Delta Junction. This trip takes planning and preparation, which means more than packing an extra energy bar. Locals pack gear for unexpected (or intentional) camping and cooking overnight: spare tires, warm clothing, water, and a first aid kit. And since gas stations are sometimes far apart, ensure you always have enough gas and don’t cut it close.
You’ll come across the Lodge at Black Rapids as you travel on the Richardson Highway. This is a super place to stop and enjoy the landscapes around you. You can learn more about the Lodge at Black Rapids in this article.
Parks Highway
The George Parks Highway, also known as the Parks Highway, connects Anchorage and Fairbanks, Alaska. This drive is full of stunning scenery and views of Denali and wildlife; it’s an epic Alaska road trip. The Parks Highway is well-traveled and maintained, even in the winter. If you want to go to Denali National Park in the winter, you’ll take this route. Denali National Park is open in the winter – yet very few people visit. Actually – it’s partially open. The main road in the park is open as far as the Park Visitor Center. There, you’ll find rangers to talk to, and you can even borrow…yes, borrow snowshoes and poles to go explore Denali National Park covered in snow! It’s a magical time to visit Denali, and you’ll feel like you have it entirely for yourself!
How to Rent a Car in Fairbanks for the Winter
The easiest way is to simply rent a car at the airport. If you don’t want to drive after a flight that arrives at midnight or later (which many do), some rental companies will deliver a vehicle to your hotel.
All of the car rentals in Alaska will have winter tires, so that’s a bonus. But if you are really hesitant or worried about driving on salt-free, icy roads, then reserve a car with studded tires. These will provide the best traction; however, it will also cost more to rent.
Make sure you know how to use the car plugin feature, as this is something you will most likely need to use. Also, before you take off from the airport, make sure that your rental has a heavy-duty ice/snow scraper. A tiny one won’t do!
Recap of Alaska Winter Driving Tips
- Don’t brake; instead, take your foot off the gas.
- Don’t wear clunky boots; have an extra pair of driving shoes inside your car.
- Give people plenty of space
- Rent a car with studs for extra safety
- Plug in your car if it’s below zero
- Plan ahead and make sure you have a full take of gas
- Drive with your headlights on day or night
- Take a paper map with you because cell connections are unreliable
- It’s always a good idea to let someone know where you are going and when you expect to be back
- Pack extra food, water, matches, and a blanket
- Ensure you have an ice scraper in your rental car.
Where to Stay If You Go to Fairbanks, Alaska, in Winter
Pikes Waterfront Lodge is the place to stay in Fairbanks. The lodge is a five-minute drive from the airport and offers a 24-hour shuttle service. Staff will suggest companies who can help in your quest to see the Northern Lights and will even place a call directly to your room if there’s a sighting.
More Fairbanks, Alaska Winter Trip Tips
To call a taxi, try Eagle & Yellow Cab at 907.455.5555 (about $15 from the Pikes Waterfront Lodge to downtown Fairbanks), Moose Taxi at 907.452.7000, or Pioneer Taxi at 907.987.0471.
Visit Explore Fairbanks for more information about planning your trip to Fairbanks.
